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FEAST MAGAZINE - May 8th, 2023

Story by Emily Standlee 

Brandon Busby knows his way around hot sauce – partially because he’s always been good at balancing flavors. “For me, it’s flavor first, and then you get the heat,” says the chef and owner of South City Sauces. “It shouldn’t just be hot with a lasting burning aftertaste that you can’t get out of your mouth – that’s not fun for anyone.”

On Tuesday, May 9, he's taking over Evangeline's Bistro & Music House for the night, showcasing his cookery and sauces – as well as homemade kombucha, homemade tortillas and spicy Margaritas.

For the past 25 years, Busby has been hosting pop-ups and working in St. Louis kitchens, including Planter’s House and Revel Kitchen. He also worked at the now-shuttered Vietnamese eatery Mekong Restaurant on South Grand. When it closed each night at 10 p.m., he had an agreement with the owner to serve after-hours fare to The Upstairs Lounge, situated above Mekong at the time. “I was doing my own food with wok burners,” he says. That was in 2012, when he filed his LLC for South City Sauces.

As he was starting to build up SCS in 2013, he met Evangeline’s chef and co-owner Don Bailey and served as kitchen manager and sous chef there for three years. 

Busby came back to St. Louis in 2020 after several years away. One day, he was walking into Restaurant Depot when he ran into Bailey. “He’s like, ‘What are you doing here?’” Busby recalls. “And he says, ‘Come back for a month, expedite on the weekends – we could really use you because a few of the creations [on the menu] are still yours.' And I’m still there.”

In his off hours, Busby spends time fermenting, bottling and making all of his sauces. For the most part, he uses locally grown peppers, dehydrating the ones that are only available for a short season.

One of his most popular sauces is called Poblano Escobar, made with roasted poblanos and jalapeños. “And a little toasted cumin and toasted coriander,” he adds. “People have been smothering their eggs in it.” His fruit-based sauces – like the blueberry-basil habanero – go especially well with pork chops and fish.

For instance, if you're looking for a hot sauce to douse your barbecue in, check out the Tang Grenade: Busby combines Carolina reaper peppers with vinegar, carrots, onion, garlic, lime and tomato for a bright, acidic flavor profile. Other flavors include garlic pepper; chipotle and chocolate; and mango, ginger and habanero. 

At Tuesday's event, he’ll serve a pairing that's as classic as they come: hot sauce and tacos. “People love the duck taco,” he says. “It’s duck confit with roasted pork, blue cheese, Asian pears and a spicy cherry Grand Marnier sauce. I’ve been doing that for like 10 years – it’s been my staple.”

Along with hot wings and other goodies, Busby will serve a lamb chorizo taco with basil chimichurri and a mushroom medley taco from Ozark Forest Mushrooms with goat cheese and arugula. 

The dinner will showcase the art and nuance that comes with making hot sauce from scratch. Busby will also debut several new sauces at the event and offer samples of old favorites. Plus, in true Evangeline's style, musician Ptah Williams will entertain on the piano, and Busby will DJ after he's finished cooking.

South City Sauces' restaurant takeover at Evangeline's takes place tomorrow, May 9, from 5 to 10 p.m. One reserved service will last from 6 to 7 p.m., with bar and patio as first come, first served. Busby has a few tables up for four remaining in the dining room – make a reservation at contact@southcitysauces.com.

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